We were pleased to escape the noise and hustle and bustle of Hanoi as we headed out with our guide Kha towards Halong Bay. It's a 3hr drive and not a particularly interesting one except we found spotting what could be carried on a moped pretty entertaining. Our list included: 800 eggs, a live cow, three pigs, two pigs and a wife and a small house! We passed through one village which was all black - black road, pavements, shops, trees, everything and then we saw why, a huge dilapidated coal fired power station which supplies much of the electricity to the surrounding area. Understandably many of the inhabitants die quite young of cancer.
We made a stop enroute at a place where disabled people can learn a trade and be given accommodation and in turn make all kinds of wonderful things to sell to the public. You could watch them making beautiful lacquer items, clothes and embroidery and we couldn't resist buying a silk embroidery picture. We asked to meet the person who made it who turned out to be a young deaf and dumb girl. She receives 50-60% of the price paid so that one day she will have enough money to make a living independently.
We arrived in Halong Bay at just before noon and were met by our concierge and there our VIP trip on the Ginger Junk began. Our junk was beautiful. All teak and only 12 cabins so it felt very exclusive and luxurious which it is. As we boarded we were handed a lemongrass scented hot towel before being shown our cabins and a tour of the junk. Our cabin had a huge double bed, three large windows with ensuite bathroom and walk in shower. It was like being in a 5 star hotel. The top deck had lovely bamboo steamer loungers for relaxing with a book or just taking in the most incredibly panorama as we silently cruised the still water through the magnificent mist shrouded limestone karsts. We were called to a superb buffet lunch after which we were offered to take the launch to visit a lovely sandy beach and an opportunity to climb 400 steps for a fabulous panoramic view. Back to the junk for some more relaxation and tea and then the daylight part of our day was finished off with a cruise amongst a floating fishing village of a 100 homes with a population of 800. Extraordinary how they live. It even has its own little primary school. Finally we were rowed in a round bamboo boat I think called a coracle as the sun set.
Supper was very romantic with table service and wine and we joined a lovely couple from Perth, Alison and Keith who coincidentally will be in Hoi An for New Year as we will be so have plans to catch up and compare our different itineraries to that point. Supper was over by about 8pm at which point everyone went to bed, bar us 4 who resigned to the bar - well you would wouldn't you? We all slept very well! Next morning the itinerary offered the opportunity to rise at 6.30 for coffee and tai chi on deck at 7am before breakfast. Breakfast included absolutely everything including noodle soup which we're getting used to seeing on menus everywhere we go as it is the mainstay breakfast in asia it seems. It's really rather good when you're in the mood. Last excursion before disembarkation took us to some magnificent caves. The whole experience was quite amazing and the scenery incredible - our second Unesco Heritage site already on this trip after Luang Prabang. Our next stop will be Sapa, an overnight train ride from Hanoi, also a Unesco Heritage site.
Photos to follow - broadband too slow where we are at the moment.
Friday, 25 December 2009
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